DUSSELDORF
Biggest Little Village on the Rhine
I was taking pictures of the Rhine River at sunset and trying to get a good angle on a freight barge and someone commented that I must like boats. I had to respond, “Well, it wouldn’t be the Rhine River without a barge”. It is the character of Germany’s most famous river - the barges and low narrow freight boats motor up and down its length all day and night, many with the owner-operators’ automobile parked on the cramped back deck for shore excursions. Their parade is only broken by the regular Rhine Cruise boats, either making a short city tour or a long river cruise. Travelers contemplating a trip to Germany often mention Munich, Cologne (Koln) or Berlin as cities to see, rarely is a visit to Dusseldorf on the list. Take a moment to reconsider. You might be surprised.
Düsseldorf is that German city familiar outside the country and even inside as the heart of Germany’s industrial and most populated region of North Rhine-Westphalia where the Rhine and the Ruhr meet. Although a major center of the country’s political and financial tax base, the city’s long and slightly funny sounding name in fact means “little village on the Düssel” the name of a small stream which empties into the mighty Rhein at the city’s old town. Dusseldorf is also perhaps one of Germany’s best kept secrets. Thought of as a dirty industrial-convention sort of place for business trips but not a tourism destination, the little town on the Düssel is in truth, a relaxed and quaint river town with a vigorous night life of bars and cafes, surrounded by a lively architectural Renaissance. When the highway which ran along the river’s edge was removed and replaced with a tunnel underneath, creating the now open riverside embankment promenade, it is said by locals that Dusseldorf was returned to the Rhine.
When the weather is good, Dusseldorfers flock to the riverside and fill the outdoor cafes and bars. In spring the Jazz Concert, one of Germany’s biggest and best brings music to the streets of the old city. The old town of Dusseldorf was heavily bombed and 85% destroyed in the war, but much has been reconstructed from old plans, retaining its old Rhine town feel, unlike concrete and steel Stuttgart (see Stuttgart - City of Festivals), or the frenetic bustle sprawling hodgepodge of Berlin. The old mixes with the new in Dusseldorf, giving the city a feeling of the past meeting the future. The Media Harbor, so named for the advertising and media companies taking up residence in its trendy “green” office buildings, populated with hot new restaurants packed late into the evening is dominated by the unique modernist designs of Frank Gehry’s twisted form architecture. Three sisters of Gehry buildings stand side by side on the waterfront, in red, white and reflective aluminum. The Rhine Riverfront stretches from the Schloss Turm, the old tower which is all that remains of the former castle, with a coffee and snack shop on the top to the Rhine Turm observation TV tower is a sharp attractive icon at the bend of the knee off the river with a rotating restaurant on top with magnificent views of the river and the city.
Napoleon came to Dusseldorf as well as Goethe. The latter left a museum, the former a corner table in the famous Brauerie zum Schiffchen Restaurant (Brewery of Small Ships) where the little emperor once sat for the city’s local brew “Alt Beer” and you can too. The French conquerer gave the city the nickname of “Little Paris” and the name sticks today. The “Kö”, the city’s famed upscale shopping street the “KönigsAllee” dares to rival Paris’ Champs Elysee, though smaller and quieter, separating the old town from the new modern one. Dusseldorf is the center of Germany’s fashion design and its influence is reflected in the “Kö”. Originally built for the elector King along the moat protecting the old town, the citizens objected to the taxes to pay for the Königsallee and would only pronounce the first syllable, but the king has his revenge, as the cosmopolitan boulevard has been become world renowned for the trendy boutiques and designer names that equal Beverly Hills, Monaco and Paris. For a little less cityscape, go a little farther up the river to the area of Kaiserswerth in the shadow of the castle ruins of one of Barbarossa’s imperial fortresses with its Rhine bank beer gardens, or further out to the Benrath Palace of Karl Theodore (see Benrath Palace). A Dusseldorf Welcome Card can be purchased from the tourism office or from rail stations. It allows unlimited travel on the underground and local S-Bahn rail system along with discounts at many attractions. Rhine Cruise boats embark from Düsseldorf’s river front for excursions and tours (see KD Rhine Cruises).
Cologne’s
Carnival is probably more famous (see Koln
Carnival Crazy Days), but Duesseldorf’s
is actually bigger and Cologne with its great cathedral is only a twenty
minute train ride away. The summer Kirmes Funfair (see Dusseldorf
Kirmes Fun Fair)
is the largest on the Rhine. In winter, artificial snow lines the
banks of the river
for cross-country
skiing through the city and the Christmas Market offers free ice-skating
(see Dusseldorf
Christmas Market). Dusseldorf’s
modern and easily accessible airport (see Air
Berlin - More Flights To Dusseldorf)
with its brand new Maritim
Hotel footsteps
out the door is one of the closest to the downtown of any major German
metropolis. The city also offers museums ranging from the grand Kunstpalast
and K20 to the just plain curious, K21 and KIT-Kunst im Tunnel (see Art Museums K21- KIT).
With the largest Japanese community in Europe, the city’s international
culture status is reflected everywhere, with Japanese Gardens in
the Nordpark, just one of many of the parks which make Dusseldorf feel
a long way from its industrial and business center reputation. © Bargain
Travel Europe
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See Also:
BOPPARD
WINE VILLAGE ON THE RHINE
STUTTGART
MUSEUMS
GERMAN WINE ROAD - WEINSTRASSE
NEANDERTHAL
DISCOVERY MUSEUM
BARBAROSSA'S CASTLE RUINS KAISERSWERTH