TRAKOSCAN CASTLE
Croatia’s Romantic Castle of Zagorje
Sometimes
called Croatia’s most romantic castle, mostly for its
look and setting Trakošcan Castle in the northern low mountain region
of Zagorje, near the border with Slovenia, is
certainly one of Croatia’s best preserved historical fortress residences.
Originally a defensive outpost guarding the northern Zagorje medieval
principality first mentioned in the 1300s, the castle’s present
shape as an aristocratic residence castle was mostly the work of the
Draškovic family who came into possession in the 16th Century. A
coat of arms and inscription note that the castle
was built by brothers
Ivan II and Peter Draškovic in 1592, though the incription itself
dates from a later time. The earlier castle was heavily damaged in a
clash the the Zrinkskis (see Zrinski
Castle Cakovek). The defensive walls
of the earlier fortress are still visible in the foundations, the structure
and rooms today are from the romantic revival period of the 19th Century.
The castle has been compared to Ludwig II of Bavaria’s romantic
revival Neuschwanstein (see Ludwig’s
Fantasy Castle) though it
is the setting of Trakoscan which is its most impressive feature.
The
Trakoscan Castle sits on the crown of a hill in the midst of a forested
park
with a
lake formed from the stream of the Bednja creek, a tributary
of the Drava River. On cool mornings the mountain mists can envelope
the castle in a seeming shroud of mystery. On bright days the towers
hugged by leafy trees are reflected in the lake waters, broken by the
ripples of row boats for rent. The origin of the name of
the castle is
unknown, though it is suggested that is a variation of the Latin and
Germanic for dragon stone (Drako Stayn) for an earlier more foreboding
incarnation. Trakošcan Castle became a state owned museum in 1953
after the last of the Draškovic family left at the end of World
War II. The
current Draskovic heir is apparently trying to
regain ownership, now
that socialism has wained, but for the moment it remains public.
The most impressive rooms are the Hunting Hall and Knights Hall with
rich wood carvings and the tapestry illustrated walls, including an entire
army battle. The castle is furnished with collection of some original
rococo and baroque furntiture, but most of furnishings are recreations
made for the castle. The museum has a very nice collection of weapons.
Perhaps
most interesting are the family portraits from 300 years. You’ll notice the heads
aren’t in scale to the bodies. Portrait painting was expensive
and with childhood mortality being what it was,
the portrait
backgrounds
were recycled. Later generations are nearly
exact
copies, except with different faces. In
one the artist transposed his
own face onto the family dog. The
Draškovic family
have had a rather artistic side. The studio of family artist Julijanja
Erdody Draškovic is on the first floor and in the museum can be
found a famous early photograph of Count Stjepan Erdody jumping over
a bench taken by Count Karlo Drascovec. A real lord a' leaping. You
need six more for your Christmas list.
The
park surrounding the Trakoscan Castle offers hiking trails with almost
a
constant view
of the castle on its hill, with it’s mirror
reflection caught in the waters. The lake itself provides for row or
paddle boating rental and fishing with a permit available in the souvenir
shop. The surrounding thick woods are popular for hunting (see Joh.
Springer Hunting) and the hills of Zagorje are dotted with tiny traditional
Croatian hamlets.
A Terrace Restarant
on the lake and a small bar restaurant and souvenir shop are
below the castle. The Hotel
Coning on the grounds nearby is a modern style lodging
with single and double rooms, with handball and tennis courts. The Ravna
Gora, Croatian Zagorje’s highest mountain
at the farthest edge of the alps is a few kilometers away with landscape
views and a popular spot for paragliding with a landing strip in Cvetlin.
Despite its solitary landscape, Trakoscan Castle and its park are easy
to reach, about 45 minutes by car from Zagreb, just off the main road
to Maribor, Slovenia and Vienna, Austria, between Krapina and Varazdin.
By public transport take a bus from Varazdin (see Varazdin
Baroque City)
and tours can be found from Zagreb. The castle and museum are open
every
day
from
9
to 6 in
summer
and 9 to 4 in the winter. © Bargain
Travel Europe
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Trakoscan
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SEE ALSO:
HOTEL
CASTLE GJALSKI - ZAGORJE
KUMROVEC – TITO’S
BIRTHHOUSE MUSEUM
LUZNICA CASTLE – CONVENT ACCOMMODATIONS