OLD CHEESEMAKERY - PASSENDALE
Oude Kaasmakerij – Cheese Making Museum in Flanders
Riddle me this – What does a naked Egyptian queen have to do with cheese? Stumped? Thinking of a dirty story? If traveling through the fields of West Flanders in Belgium, surrounded by the monuments and memorials to the devastating brutal folly battles of the First World War (see World War I Trail Flanders) you might come across the answer at the Oude Kaasmakerij – the Old Cheesemakery. The village of Passendale (Passchendaele) is known for both its place in war history and for Passendale Cheese, a semi-soft cheese made from cow's milk, shaped in rounds with a brown crust dusted with white mould from aging, one of Belgium's best known varieties.
With the outbreak of World War I the Spruytte Family fled from the sleepy village of Passchendaele to Normandy, where they ran a restaurant during the war. Germaine Spruytte learned how to make cheese of a type known as Pont l’Evêque. When she and her husband Romain Donck returned to Belgium after the war, they began a family cheese business on farmland reclaimed from the bombings of the war, with milk from a cooperative of area farmers. The cheese became very popular and they needed to build a production factory, located just next to the farm.In 1936, to make improvements in the product, they brought in a master cheese-maker from Switzerland. The next world war was a little tough on the cheese business as well. In 1949, cheese making was moved to a facility it in the town. A variation of the original cheese was renamed for the town in 1978, becoming the Passendale Cheese brand. Cheese is no longer made at the old factory, abandoned in 1963, but the facility was given named as a national monument and in 2003 opened as a cheese making museum.
The Old Cheesemakery (Oude Kaasmakerij in Dutch) just outside the village of Passchendaele a few miles from the war museum of the Ypres Salient and cemetery at Tyne Cot (see Passiondale 1917 WWI Museum) is set up as the creamery cheese dairy would have been in the 1930s, presenting a tour of the classic cheese making processes, from the mixing of milk with culture, molding in cheese cloth, and aging. Tour guides explain the process of many steps, leading through exhibits of different cheeses from around the world. The tour ultimately leads to the cheese tasting room and restaurant.
At the entrance you’ll find a giant globe with the continents made of pieces of cheese, and along the way encounter the nude Cleopatra bathing in milk. She has rather become the symbol of the Old Cheesemakery. There are no actual images of what Cleopatra actually looked like, aside from one badly damaged profile on a coin, but the famous Queen of the Nile has always been imagined as a great beauty and is here represented as a voluptuous nude mannequin in a bath of donkey milk (it apparently doesn’t curdle as much as cow milk), which she reportedly bathed in daily to maintain her silky skin. What does Cleopatra have to do with Belgian cheese? Not much, but she does make an entertaining museum display - relating the importance of milk through history. Fortunately the cheese is made with moo milk, not the other kind, and if you have kids you’d rather not view a bathing nubile nude, she is partly hidden behind a curtain.
Visiting Oude Kaasmakerij
The Old CheeseMakery Museum has a tea room and restaurant. Cheese tasting is €1.75. Entrance fee is €4 for adults (over 26), Seniors and Youth €3.50, Children under 6 are free. Cheese tasting is €1.75. The museum is Tuesday- Sunday from 10 am to 5 pm Fridays 1 pm to 5 pm, from mid February to the end of November. In June, July and August open daily from 10 to 5:30 pm. Closed in December and January. The Oude Kaasmakerij cheese factory museum is about 15 minutes from Ypres by car. Follow the N38 to the Passendale Church, turn left, past the old village hall. At the end of this street, turn left into s' Graventafelstraat. After 2 kilometers ook for the waving Passendale flags. © Bargain Travel Europe
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SEE ALSO:
ST GEORGE’S WWI MEMORIAL CHURCH - YPRES
HALVE MANN BREWERY TOUR – BRUGES
BRUSSELS MUSICAL INSTRUMENT MUSEUM
GRAVENSTEEN - COUNT'S CASTLE - GHENT