STOCKALPER CASTLE – BRIG
Baroque Palace of Salt and the Simplon Pass
It is the symbol and pride of Brig, and the largest baroque period schloss in Switzerland, but neither a castle or really a palace, but more warehouse and office. The Stockalper Castle was built between 1658 and 1678 by Kaspar Jodok von Stockalper. The Stockalper name came from an Italian ancestor from Milan who acquired the rights to a mountain in the Alps on the Simplon Pass between Italy and the Rhone River Valley of Switzerland. Kaspar Stockalper was perhaps one of the shrewdest businessman of his age, like the industrial era barons who followed 200 years later. Engaged in the family silk trade he later cornered the market for salt in southern Switzerland, from mines in the BelAlp region above Brig. Where most castles of the time were built as fortresses or residences of princes and nobles, Stockalper was neither. As he became fabulously wealthy, he built himself a palace, but he never really lived in it, preferring to remain in the comfortable and familiar old family house next door. His castle was mostly his office and warehouse.
The Stockalper castle consists of four floors of rooms in a square form now used mostly as Brig City offices and a large courtyard lined with arcades. Stockalper mostly used the palace as business offices and the courtyard as a warehouse to store his goods. The Stockalper Castle was built with an obvious Italianate influence, feeling more Lombardy Renaissance than Swiss Baroque, but it’s most distinctive features are the three high square towers topped by onion domes typical of its era. A devoutly religious man, who also financed the Jesuit Church which sits on the hill about the castle, and himself named for one of the three wise men of the nativity, Stockalper named the three high towers of his castle after the 3 magi, Caspar, Melchior and Balthazar. The highest, of course, bore his own namkesake. The domes were once covered in gold, but no longer. In the courtyard you'll find examples of the Post Coaches which once traversed the Alps passes in the 1700's. precursers to today's Swiss Post Busses, bearing the same yellow colors.
Below the Stockalper Castle, the large garden, once formal baroque, now serves as a city park, recently renovated after a serious flood in Brig destroyed much of the original landscaping. The park has a stream through the center, and is decorated with modern art. Students from the nearby school gather in the garden below when the sun shines, spreading out on the grass in the shadow of the palace towers and the Alps peaks. On the pathway approach to the castle court gate, look for the stone markers which once marked the miles across the Simplon Pass. Music concerts are sometimes held in the castle courtyard with the music drifting out over the garden.
Visiting Brig's Stockalper Castle
Guided tours are given of the castle interior every day except Mondays from May to October, mostly a look at the Knights Hall on the top floor which served as a banquet and event hall for the Stockalpers and still serves that purpose. The hall has paintings some of the Stockalper family, the man himself and other important historic figures of Brig (see Chateau St Maurice). Most of the other floors are occupied with the mayor’s and other city offices. Tours cost 10 Swiss Francs for adults, kids over 7 years 4 Swiss Francs, under 7 are free. The tours are at specified times, about 6 during the day.
Perhaps more interesting than the castle tour in the visitor’s center and ticket office, (just behind the castle) is an exhibit of the building of the Simplon Pass tunnel, the first tunnel built through the high alps between Switzerland and Italy which defined Brig’s growth and development as a stopover for the famous legendary train the Simplon Orient Express, which traversed through the pass on its way from Paris to Milan and on to Istanbul. Brig is a stop on the rail route from Milan, with transfers to the Matterhorn-Gotthard rail line to Zermatt (an hour from Brig) and the route along Valais serving the main rail lines between Geneva, Chur and St Moritz, and the Glacier Express (see Scenic Glacier Express). The Stockalper Castle is easy to get to with a stopover in Brig, about a five-ten minute walk from main rail station. © Bargain Travel Europe
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