MEMORIAL TO MURDERED JEWS OF EUROPE
Stark Holocaust Reminder in Berlin
How does an entire country and its people say “we’re sorry”? It’s a fact of existence in the modern Germany. There are many nations on the globe with plenty of bloody hands to wash, a few admit some shades of guilt for transgressions or the acts of individual citizens, while others take no responsibility for evil deeds of the past in the name of nationalism or destiny. In the heart of Berlin is a stark reminder of the deliberate process of extermination of an entire people, a field of silent concrete blocks near the Brandenburg Gate, just behind the luxurious Adlon Hotel and new American Embassy on land which was once a no-man’s buffer between east and west.
The concept of a high profile memorial to the Holocaust was first proposed by a publicist Lea Rosh, during the government of Willy Brandt in 1989, when re-unification of the divided Germany first appeared possible with the fall of the Berlin Wall (see Checkpoint Charlie). It took ten years before it was formally approved by the Bundestag in 1999. After an artistic competition for designers, the concept of Peter Eisenman was chosen and construction begun in 2003. The Memorial To The Murdered Jews of Europe was completed in 2005. There is no great sign and the blocks have no markings, so for first time visitors to Berlin who come across it, the question arises what are those.
Formed by 2,711 concrete blocks called Stelae, in even rows but uneven heights, with slight inclines which catch the sunlight at slightly different angles and shades, perhaps resembling a yard of concrete coffins, or a field of fallen monolith stones, the memorial stretches from the urban city to the trees of the Tiergarten park. The number of blocks was chosen to fit the space rather than for any significance of the number. They are meant to walk among, some rising to tall heights, some below eye level for a changing experience of solemnity and reflection.
Below ground, underneath the monument field is the Information Center with five rooms of exhibits. An audio guide tour of the rooms starts with a study of the Nazis’ extermination policy from 1933 to 1945, presented through texts and pictures in chronological order. The Room of Dimensions tells the personal story of fifteen victims in written diaries. The Room of Families highlights the change in the lives of Jewish families of Europe from the 19th Century to the destruction of the culture in the Nazi era. The Room of Names lists the names and short biographies of murdered Jews, read out in a solemn recorded voice, all the names would take seven years to complete. Individual victims’ names can be searched in a database from the Isreali memorial site Yad Vashem. The last Room of Sites shows the geographic spread of the genocide of Jews across Europe.
The building of such a monument was the subject of great heated debates in the halls of the German government, its one capital undergoing a lengthy renovation within sight of the proposed location (see Reichstag Dome). A computer terminal in the lobby documents the arguments made for and against its creation.
Visiting the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe
The memorial site is just to the south of the Brandenburg Gate. The entrance to the Information Center is by stair and elevator at the south-eastern corner. The Field of Stelae can be visited at all hours of the day. The below ground exhibit center is open from 10am to 8pm April to September and 10am to 7pm October to march. The last admission is 45 minutes before closing. Entrance is free. The Audio Tour guide is €4 for adults, €2 reduced for youth and seniors. Guided Tours in English are offered Saturday and Sunday at 4pm for €3, meeting point at the elevator building at the Corner of Cora-Berlininer and Hannah-Arendt Strasse. © Bargain Travel Europe
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Murdered
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These articles are copyrighted and the sole property of Bargain Travel Europe and WLPV, LLC. and may not be copied or reprinted without permission. Interior photo courtesy Stiftung Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden Europas.
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KENNEDYS MUSEUM BERLIN