LONDONDERRY ARMS HOTEL – CARNLOUGH
Georgian Coaching Inn Hotel on the Antrim Coast
The first thing to know about the Londonderry Arms Hotel is that it is not in the city of similar name, but in the charming and picturesque fishing village along the stunning, scenic Antrim Coast of Northern Ireland, about a 40 minute drive from Belfast and 20 minutes from the famed Giant’s Causeway and Rope Bridge (see Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge). The historic hotel, set in the Glens of Antrim where the HBO television series “Game of Thrones” finds some of its rugged locations, is a family run hotel in the traditional Georgian coaching inn style, with a rather unique history. It was once owned by Sir Winston Churchill. The family run hotel is decorated in traditional style, with each of the rooms furnished with its own individual character individually, all with ensuite bathrooms. With 2 restaurants, The Londonderry Arms offers elegant old world surroundings of the Frances Anne and Tapestry Room restaurant, and the Coach House Bistro. The menus reflect the specialties of the rugged Glens of Antrim, wild salmon, lamb from the Antrim Hills and local produce.
The village of Carnlough, (Cairn of the Lake from the Gaelic) lies at the foot of Glencoy, one of the nine Glens of Antrim, overlooking the Sea of Moyle, which divides Ireland from Scotland. The Londonderry Arms was built in 1848 by the Marchioness of Londonderry, Lady Francis Anne Tempest. In her teen years, Francis Anne inherited the lands between Glenarm and Cushendall in her own right and at 19 married Charles William, Lord Stewart, the Marquis of Londonderry, sometimes called Fighting Charlie for his fervent nature, who as Ambassador to Austria, assisted the Duke of Wellington in the negotiations of the Congress of Vienna where the boundaries of Europe were redrawn after the end of the Napoleonic Wars.
In the 1840s, Ireland found itself suffering in the depression of the Great Potato Famine. Lady Londonderry, inspired by a vision of her duties as a landlord, and perhaps by some of the changes taking place in other parts of Europe developed her lands, building a town hall and the hotel as a works project on the protected harbor in the midst of the glens, and a limekiln for industry with a small railway line to connect the pier to the limestone quarries in the hills. The Londonderry Arms Inn with rooms and a restaurant was at the center of the coastal village. Francis Anne died in 1865 and the estate passed to her grandson Herbert Vane Tempest and after him, passed to his second cousin Winston Churchill. The route of the old limekiln railway now long gone now crosses a path to the little harbor with views out across the sea. The hotel was bought by Frank and Moira O’Neill in 1947 and their son Frankie restored the property after graduating from the prestigious Scottish Hotel School and restored it to its present country elegance.
The Londonderry Arms hotel is also associated with another unique bit of Irish history. In the pub room you’ll find photographs of one of Ireland’s most famous race horse of the 1960’s, Arkle. A national legend whose strength was claimed to have come from drinking Guinness twice a day, the horse was owned by Anne Grosvenor, the Duchess of Westminster, affectionately “Nancy” around the race course, whose husband was the richest man in England and a close friend of Winston Churchill, a horse owner himself. Arkle’s skeleton can curiously still be seen on display the Irish National Stud Museum in Kildare, Ireland east of Dublin (see Irish National Stud).
The Londonderry Arms Hotel of Carnlough can serve as a base for exploring the north coast of County Antrim (see Northern Ireland Coastal Walks), from hiking in the green glens, to the coastal scenery from Carrickfergus to Bushmills with its distillery and the Giant’s Causeway, or just a stop between Belfast and the actual Londonderry, about an hour and half away to the west. © Bargain Travel Europe
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SEE ALSO:
DRIVING
SCENIC IRELAND WITH A RENTAL CAR
DUNLUCE
CASTLE - ANTRIM COAST DRIVE
COOKING
HOLIDAYS IN IRISH CASTLES
ARMAGH PUBLIC LIBRARY & VICAR’S HILL No 5
ENNISKILLEN CASTLE - FERMANAGH
IRELAND COASTAL COTTAGES – BY THE WEEK